"Buy the best females (proven genetics) you can afford. Then breed to the best (matching) herdsire you can find".
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The Vertical Leap
GF Accoyo Centaur
ARI #: 1660166
DOB: 2-6-04
BREED: Huacaya (Full Accoyo)
SEX: Male
ORIGIN: USA
COLOR: Light Fawn
DAM: Birgitte (Accoyo Royal Fawn daughter)
SIRE: PPPeruvian Grand Master
STATUS: Proven, in service since 2006
FLEECE ANALYSIS: 19.2 AFD, 3.1 SD, 16.2 CV, 98.8 CF
BREEDING FEE: $1,750
AWARDS:
1ST 2004 MIAF Juvenile Halter Class (youngest in the class)
2nd 2006 MIAF Adult Light Fawn Males Halter Class
Accoyo Centaur exhibits a proud stance, with conformation and fleece that are top quality. He is a light fawn full Accoyo sire with 4 dark fawn/light brown patches on his body (none on his blanket fleece). His cria just hit the ground this year. When bred to dark dams, he is allowing color to pass. He is a gentle well mannered male and multiple ribbon winner, having won his 1st Blue Ribbon at 7 months of age. We are very pleased with the cria he has sired thus far. He turned 3.5 yrs. of age on August 6, 2007. His fleece is maintaining a soft handle. Accoyo Centaur has been tested BVD negative.
CO-OWNED WITH PEAK RANCH ALPACAS MONUMENT, CO. CENTAUR WILL BE IN COLORADO MAY-SEPT 2008. CONTACT RENE & DENNIS BESHEAR FOR BREEDING SERVICES.
RO Centurion Magic
ARI #: 847352
DOB: 10-15-02
BREED: Huacaya (Alianza genetics)
SEX: Male
ORIGIN: USA
COLOR: Medium Fawn
DAM: RO Peruvian Harmony
SIRE: 4Peruvian Black Magic
STATUS: Proven, in service since 2006
BREEDING FEE: $1,500
AWARDS:
1st 2005 MIAF Adult Fawn Halter Class-Judge Mike Safley
1st 2005 MIAF Fleece Show
2005 MIAF RESERVE CHAMPION FLEECE
Ribbon 2006 MOPACA Handcrafter's Spin-Off (score 93 out of 100)
RESERVE CHAMPION! Centurion Magic has the fleece one should be demanding for the next generation of top quality herdsires. Attributes: density, uniformity, fineness, handle, staple length, character, even color. His conformation excels. Rounding out these high marks, his topknot and tail are full and dense. The son of Peruvian Black Magic, Centurion is dark pigmented in his face and toenails. When bred to dark dams, he is allowing darker color to pass to his cria. A cross of Alianza/Sollocota genetics, he is a powerhouse from head to toe. We are offering a 50/50 partnership with Centurion Magic for $6,750. If interested, he can travel now to be a part of your farm's breeding program for fall 2007. Call us for details. Centurion Magic has been tested BVD negative.
Magnifico Rey
ARI #: 30027658
DOB: 11-22-05
BREED: Huacaya
SEX: Male
ORIGIN: USA
COLOR: White
DAM: RO Peruvian Harmony
SIRE: Mafutu (Son of Patagonia's Danko)
STATUS: Unproven
FLEECE ANALYSIS: 2006 18.0 FD, 4.2 SD, 23.4 CV, 99.4 CF, 18.6%<15
BREEDING FEE: $1,500
AWARDS:
2nd 2006 MIAF Juvenile Combined WH.& BG. Halter Class (7)
3rd 2006 OABA Juvenile White Halter Class (14)
2nd 2007 MBS Yearling White Halter Class (6)
2nd 2007 MIAF Yearling Composite Class
Here is a "magnificent ray" of sunshine to pass on high quality genetics to your next generation of cria. Magnifico can't wait to get started breeding this fall. He's earned 3 well deserved ribbons in very stiff white/beige competition, placing ahead of full Accoyo boys. His sire is a 2 time AOBA Blue Ribbon Winner, who has a long list of ribbon winning offspring. Magnifico Rey has been tested BVD negative. 50/50 partnership is available with this young male, which includes a 6 month stay at your farm and the opportunity to stud him out for breeding income.
ALPACA FACILITIES AND PASTURES, PLANNING AND MANAGEMENT by Daniel A. Gromek
Remembering back when Felice and I were looking for a special critter to raise, we had two criteria that stand out in my mind today. One, was that the facilities be simple and inexpensive. Two, was the requirement that the daily care be quick and easy. To our delight, the alpaca has fit our goals perfectly.Seminar Goals
- Simple: Kiss Principle, "Keep It Simple Stupid" Alpacas are easy and
inexpensive to care for, let's keep it that way.- Flexible: Nothing remains the same for long. Being able to adapt
eliminates problems.- Expandable: The crias come and will you be ready?
- Safe: The best insurance against loss is a safe operation.
- Worry Free: Obtain the knowledge and confidence to manage your own
alpacas with peace of mind.
BUILDINGS - Alpacas are very hardy and durable animals. I have walked outside in early winter to find snow covered mounds dotting the pasture. Even though shelter was available our alpacas preferred to sleep in the wide open spaces.
Many areas of North America experience climate extremes, which can be stressful to alpacas. Because of the value we place on our alpacas, it is essential to provide a simple three sided shelter. The alpacas are intelligent and will take shelter on their own, when they feel the need.Building Goals
- shelter from severe weather
- containment for management
- hay-feed storage
- stressful weather birthing
- equipment storage
Shed - This basic three sided shelter is the best and healthiest shelter for your alpacas. Whether it is a small stand-alone building of a large structure attached to your main building, the shed should always open away from prevailing storm winds and incorporate the following:
- A floor space of 10' x 20' can over winter approximately eight alpacas. This assumes
they will have free access to pasture most of the time.- Skids underneath a stand-alone shed add great flexibility. If the ground inside becomes
to messy (after a long winter), you can move the shed to a new site. Skids make it easy
to move to a new pasture or just change positions with the seasons.- Tarping the front opening smaller in winter will help with tricky winds and drifting snow.
Using clear tarps will let the sun inside. Sun in the winter is always a healthy plus. A bed of straw will maximize protection from severe cold.- A gate for the entrance will turn your shelter into a catch pen. Locating your feed trays
in the shed will help greatly in catching your alpacas.- Higher ceiling will also have an advantage of creating space for a small hay storage shelf.
- It can be a plus to have an enclosed pen just outside your shed. This space would have a crushed gravel or other suitable material surface. In spring or fall when the pasture is wet and muddy, your alpacas can exercise and take up the healthy sunshine and still stay clean.
Pole Barn
- A pole barn is a simple, very cost-efficient structure. It is an ideal structure for a large or growing breeder. The wide open design will give you excellent flexibility. This space can be used for pens, equipment storage, hay storage, winter birthing rooms, etc. Remember this is a fixed site building. Attention should be paid to location. Insure that pastures will fan out logically and prevailing storm winds will not be a problem.
Alpacas are gentle, non-destructive animals. They will not chew wood or kick their stalls. Alpacas may nibble, especially the young. Keep exposed wiring and materials such as particle board, foam board, fiberglass, etc. out of reach.
Your primary alpaca shelters should be shed structures open on one side. These can be built attached to the main barn with pastures radiating outward. Inside pens are not normally used except for special circumstances.
The size of your building should correspond to the maximum expected herd size:- Indoor pen 10' x 10', good for 3-4 adult alpacas.
- Insure that all alpacas can see each other. Indoor pens should be able to hold all
young and old in case of very severe outside weather.- Hay storage can be calculated two ways. Assume 1.5 lbs. of hay per adult per day.
The weight of a hay bale can vary. Check with your supplier. Or, figure one average
bale will feed one alpaca for 10-12 days. Because of many variables, these are rough
estimates.- Winter birthing room: a 10' x 20' space for approximately 3 adults with crias.
- Possible medical or office room.
- Equipment storage, tractor, trailer, etc.
- Ventilation is extremely important on hot summer days. Remember our alpacas wear one of the warmest fleeces in the world. Insure that your building has adequate doors and windows to provide maximum ventilation. The roof should have a continuous ridge vent. A temperature-humidity gauge inside will help give you accurate information on conditions. On hot, humid days when there is no breeze, simple box fans will keep your alpacas cool.
- The flooring in your barn has an impact on your sanitation, safety and cleanliness. Most any floor will work. They all have their pros and cons. Of course all floors should be cleaned daily.
- Cement flooring is more expensive. It can be slippery when wet, unless it has a
rough surface. A rough surface will retain dung and parasites. In winter cement will
drain body heat from a cushed alpaca faster than bare ground. This floor is easily
cleaned and does help in keeping toenails trimmed.- A dirt-clay floor is certainly the most inexpensive. This will work with alpacas. It is
not the most hygienic and it will leave your alpacas fleece in dirty condition.- Crushed limestone fines will pack firm enough to keep dung and alpaca feet on top, yet
will allow a minimum of drainage. The white gravel will keep your alpacas clean. Their
fleece may become dusty but it is easily blown out. The surface will compact as dirt
accumulates. This can be removed and replaced annually.- Wood flooring is not desirable because of the hazard of splinters.
- A temperature controlled pen is not needed with alpacas. However, if you are expecting winter births or would like to remove temperature stress from a sick animal, a climate controlled pen is the answer. Remember alpacas are outdoor creatures. They will tolerate being enclosed but ensure that they have a good companion. Let the animals outside when weather permits, if only for a few hours.
- Size this room as large as possible. A 10' x 20' space would be good for 3 adults with
crias. I have seen smaller work successfully. The more space your alpacas have the more trouble-free your operation will be.- Insulate as well as possible. Be sure to keep friable materials out of reach. Young
alpacas may nibble on insulation, etc. Heavy insulation is great but do not seal this
space tight. Good ventilation is critical. A newborn cria can die from ammonia fumes
from alpaca urine.- Heat with a thermostatically controlled heater and maintain approximately 40°F.
If your heater produces combustion gases they must be vented outside. Adequate make- up air must be provided for burner type heaters. Do not use radiant light bulb type heat, as this U.V. light can burn the eyes and skin. A deluxe set-up might heat the floor with underground hot water pipes.
- We use overhead electric radiant strip heaters with supplemental electric fan box heaters. They are hung from the ceiling to keep them away from the alpacas. All combustibles are kept away. A thermometer on the wall is a must.
South facing windows are a great plus. They not only allow natural day lighting, but will give the alpacas some direct sun which is very beneficial to their health. A small night light is a good idea. This allows for safe movement on the darkest nights. Our set-up is inside an old milking barn and has a cement floor. To control slip hazards, urine and its resulting ammonia, we use oil dry.
Doing a thorough floor cleaning can create a cloud of unhealthy dust. During this time we will move our alpacas outside.
Remote T.V. monitor for this space is ideal, but not necessary. There are good black and white units available at very low cost. We now watch expectant moms from the comfort of our kitchen. Portable panels are excellent for setting up pens inside or out. The location, size and shape can quickly change to accommodate your needs. They also come in handy to make temporary gates, corridors and mini pastures. Not to mention displaying your alpacas at shows.
GFI (ground fault interruption): make sure all electric circuits have this essential safety feature.Existing Facilities - Existing buildings are easily converted for use with alpacas, whether it is an old barn, storage shed or even your garage. As long as the basic needs of your alpaca is met, you will not go wrong.
At Gromek Farms Alpacas, we have converted an old farm machine shed to indoor alpaca pens. We have also taken a large 3 sided cow shed and converted it to alpaca use. An old calf weaning shed is now on skids in our bachelors pasture.FENCING AND GATES - Alpacas are easy to contain. They do not challenge fences or gates. Alpacas are a gentle animal. Fencing needs can be divided into two distinct areas, perimeter and interior. Where as the #1 priority of perimeter is to keep out danger, a priority with interior fencing might be alpaca visibility.
Goals
- Predator and disease control
- Segregate for breeding, weaning, etc.
- Pasture rotation
- Safety
- Important things to keep in mind with your fencing include.
- Know your local predators. Local expertise can be the best help. No one knows your local predators and how to control them better than your own state wildlife biologist. Also ask if rabid raccoons or skunks are a problem in your area.
- Do not keep your alpacas with other livestock that might harm them, such as a full size horse that could kick and injure your alpaca.
- Remove trees that could fall and damage your fence.
- An alley way should be a minimum of 8' wide. Keep in mind the wider the alley the less timid the alpacas will be. Yet one person should be able to easily move the animals, perhaps with a 10' long, 3/4" diameter pvc plastic pole.
- Catch-pens should be constructed a minimum of 10' x 10' in size. Keep this space clear of objects that a running alpaca might bump into.
- Insure that there is no part of your fencing that could snag fiber or cut your alpaca. Loose wire ends are an extreme hazard. "T" posts can have sharp edges on the top. We use "T" that stand 5' out of the ground with 5' chain-link going up to the top. We have not had any problems. To be ultra safe, use a plastic protective cap.
- Watch where your mothers are having their babies (crias). These little ones have been known to roll under fences. In areas where young alpacas are kept, I prefer a fence that meets the ground.
Perimeter Fence - The most important concern when thinking about your perimeter fence is predator and disease control. Dogs, coyotes, and deer are probably the worst offenders.
- Coyotes are intelligent. They are unlikely to risk injury attacking a healthy animal willing to defend itself. Alpacas will defend their group and attempt to drive off the intruder. Dogs will kill for fun and are a far greater danger. In the USA more livestock is lost from dog predation than from all other predators combined.
- To control these predators, check the following:
- OVER: A perimeter fence of at least 5' should control jumping. A 6' fence is ideal.
We have had no trouble with dogs with our 5' chain-link fence.- UNDER: If predators digging under your fence is a concern you can bury a mesh wire 12" deep, along the bottom of your fence. Other methods include staking barbed wire or hot wires close to the ground outside your fence.
- THROUGH: Keep your wire fence spacing close enough so no predators can squeeze
through.- The perimeter fence is the only place I would consider using barbed wire or electric fence. It would be used high up (above alpaca reach) to control jumping deer, or outside the perimeter fence and close to the ground to prevent digging predators.
- With a very difficult predator problem, a guard dog might be the answer. A breed specifically raised to live with and guard livestock will work. Special attention must be paid to selecting the right breed and properly introducing him to your alpacas.
- Deer carry the meningeal worm and should be kept out of pastures. At Gromek Farms Alpacas we use a 5' chain-link perimeter fence. This has worked well for us. However, I know deer can easily jump 5'. We have seen many deer walking outside our fence, but none inside. The deer in our neighborhood have not had a need to jump into our pastures. When you block a deer trail with fence or your pasture is the best forage around, then you will have trouble with deer. The minimum height for fence to exclude deer is 8'. If deer in your pasture is a concern, contact your state wildlife biologist office. They know the best methods for deer exclusion in your region.
Interior Fence - Thoughts on interior fencing can be very different from your perimeter fence. Things to
consider include:
- Appearance can be more important here. Is the fence pleasing? Can you easily see
your alpacas on the other side?- Is this fence free of hazards to your alpacas? Can crias roll underneath?
- Should this fence be permanent or constructed so it can be moved some day with
minimum expense?- A minimum height of 44" is adequate for alpacas.
Fence Types - Barbed Wire: Dangerous! Absolutely not recommended around alpacas. Get rid of any you now have. One exception, is with perimeter fencing to control difficult predators. Keep barbed wire out of reach of alpacas.
- Cyclone Fence: Excellent, especially for perimeter applications. Conforms well to hilly terrain.
Can be expensive. Has very low maintenance and visibility of your alpaca is good.- Post and Board: Very attractive, the classic fence. Can be very expensive. This is a high maintenance fence (except vinyl fence) and splinters from boards can be a hazard to alpacas. This type has been used for perimeter fencing with hot wires between boards. Visibility of alpacas through this fence is poor.
- Welded Mesh Fencing: Also called field fence, horse no-climb, double V no climb, etc. Vertical and horizontal woven wire construction in many sizes. Ensure that largest opening between wires will not trap a cria’s head. This is excellent fencing for alpacas. Low maintenance and visibility of alpacas is good. It does not conform well to hilly terrain. Be careful of gaps under the fence at low spots.
- New Zealand: Horizontal high tension wires stapled from post to post. Closer spacing towards
bottom increases effectiveness. Excellent perimeter fence if properly electrified.
Low maintenance, but needs to tightened periodically, Visibility of alpacas is excellent. This type makes a nice interior fence.- Electric Fence: High maintenance fence with some potential hazards to alpacas. Good to use with perimeter fencing where predators are a problem. Keep out of reach of alpacas if possible.
- Plastic Fence: Sometimes called construction barrier fence. Used as temporary internal fencing only. I use this type when reseeding small areas or closing dung spots. Used with "T" post, the light weight and ease of installation make this type useful.
Gates - Gates can be a weak link in your operation. Pay special attention to the following. Insure that your gates will not allow a cria to roll underneath. Make sure your gates do not have any fiber catch points or sharp edges. Do not have any gaps around your gates that exceed 2". Larger gaps invite your alpacas to put their heads through. The result could be death. An exterior gate should have an apron of hard material to prevent a predator from digging under.
PASTURE - One of the most important aspects of raising livestock, yet often taken for granted, is the pasture. Your alpacas will spend most of their life in your pasture. It will be their main source of nutrition, exercise space, bedding area and source of parasites. How many of us realize that the pasture is a living evolving ecosystem? The bottom line is, take care of your pasture and it will take care of your alpacas.
Pasture Goals
- good nutrition
- clean - safe environment
- long lasting
- easily maintained
- It is a hard world out there, and your tranquil looking pasture is no exception. An ideal pasture is a mix of several different plants. They may not look it but all those plants are locked in competition for available minerals, water, sun, etc. The losers die. I may seed 60% orchard grass, 20% brome grass and 20% legumes in a new alpaca pasture. Ten years later we could walk that same pasture and it might be 100% Kentucky bluegrass! The grasses will crowd out the legumes. Kentucky blue will seed in from surrounding fields and in time will dominate the weaker grasses. For the best pasture, reseeding will eventually be necessary
Care - Feed your pasture and it will feed your alpacas. The nutrient uptake of your alpacas is directly related to your pasture plants nutrient uptake. Your pasture can look healthy and green and still be low in nutrition. The best thing is to take annual soil samples and then replace the missing elements with the appropriate soil amendments; lime, nitrogen, potash, etc.
In spring allow pasture plants to obtain 6" in height before grazing your alpacas. If your heard is over grazing your pasture, split it in two and rotate your alpacas. Allow one pasture to grow back and regain its vigor while the other is in use. Remember, an overgrazed pasture in the fall will result in increased winter plant die-off.Sources - Every part of North America is unique. An excellent seed mix in one area may not even grow in another. For the best advice talk to alpaca breeders in your region. Local farm grain outlets are good sources. Most important, your state government should have an agricultural expert, often located at the county level. Available to you, these experts are normally backed by your state agricultural university, and are willing to visit your ranch for on-site evaluations at no charge.
Dangerous Plants - Many people like to have alpacas right in their backyard. This is a great idea. This is also where we find rose bushes, yews and other plants very dangerous to your alpacas. Be sure to remove any thorny or poisonous plants from this area. If in doubt, pull it out.
- In every pasture you will be able to find some poisonous plants. Lambs quarters, burdock and red root are a few found in my region. It is good to eliminate poisonous plants but you will never get them all and it is really not necessary. Alpacas may nip a piece of the poisonous plant, but they will not eat the plant as long as good pasture exists. If you overgraze and there is little left except the poisonous plants, then you will be in trouble. The alpacas will then eat them.
- Canadian thistles are a plant I will give special attention. Alpacas will leave them alone and eat around them. But when spooked, running or rolling they may come in contact. The needle-sharp thorn can penetrate the alpacas skin and cause an abscess to form. They could also damage the eyes. When the pasture is still closed to alpacas in the spring and weeds are young and growing, I will walk my field with a spray bottle of Round-up herbicide. The small acreage required for alpacas allows me to intensively manage my pasture.
Layout - The layout of your pastures and enclosures is essential to the safe and efficient operation of your farm. There are many variables that come into play when designing a layout. In an ideal set-up, one person should be able to move an alpaca easily throughout your entire operation.
- Centralized: This is perhaps the easiest set-up to manage where you have a central barn
with pens and the pastures radiating outward. The wagon-wheel type layout has a pie-shaped pasture extending out from each pen. In the ladder-type layout alleyways will extend out from a central building and connect remote pastures. I prefer a wagon-wheel type arrangement myself. However, every place is different and a hybrid layout might be best for you.- Dispersed: Because of existing buildings or very difficult terrain, pastures can be disbursed throughout a property. Each pasture would have its own shed. It is a good idea to connect all pastures to a common corridor.
Miscellaneous - Some grass plants may be excellent forage. However, their seed heads are murder in a fleece. Timothy grass is an example. Eliminate it or mow the seed heads before they mature.
- Ponds are beautiful. The alpacas love to wade in the hot weather. This will cause the leg fiber to rot off. This is not a problem for the alpacas. However, their appearance will suffer greatly. In a pond a steep embankment could cause a drowning. The pond is ready cause for disease transmission. A pond would be a great addition for appearance, irrigation, etc., but keep your alpacas fenced out.
- Some of your areas will experience heavy alpaca traffic. Those areas might include pasture adjacent to pens, corridors and along some fences. In these areas the pasture plants may die out. A rough "short grass" will hold up best in these spots. In Michigan, I use Kentucky bluegrass which is also a good pasture grass.
- All consistently, wet areas in a pasture should be eliminated. The meningeal worm host, between the deer and your alpacas, is the snail.
